Skincare is complicated.
If you have ever…
- looked at wacky spots on your skin with chagrin
- been completely overwhelmed as you wandered through Sephora
- wished a heaven-sent beam of light could just show you the perfect moisturizer already
…then this post is for you.
Because I’m right there with you.
I’ve been on a long journey of upgrading my skincare routine. My skin is a mysterious, finicky combination of extremely sensitive, dry, and acne-prone. After using the same basic cleanser and moisturizer for years, I wanted something to target my skin’s needs more effectively. I also began to wonder whether some of the chemicals in skincare products might be less than helpful.
So I fell into the rabbit hole of the Internet. After tons of research and experimentation, I do believe that you can improve your skin with the right routine. So if you’ve been annoyed by your skin, have hope!
But finding that perfect routine? It can feel tricky. This is post is everything from (too much) research about about how to create a skincare routine that actually works. No matter your skin type, this post will provide a path through the maze of skincare products and advice.
This post will cover:
- Where Do I Start? Three principles to keep in mind as you begin to create a skincare routine.
- How Do I Find Products that Work? Tips to help you sort through the noise and find products that actually meet your needs.
- How Should I Add New Products? A step by step guide to adding additional products to your routine.
Want to skip ahead and just see the products I use for my sensitive, acne-prone skin? Check out this post.
Also, please remember that this post will not diagnose your skin conditions. Reading articles online is not a replacement for seeing a dermatologist! Trust me on this. In college, I developed terrible cystic acne that required expert advice and prescription products. My current breakouts are much more manageable because I got help. If you have stubborn or severe acne that’s physically or emotionally painful, please make an appointment! They can help you create a skincare routine that will have amazing results.
Now, here’s what you need to know about how to build a skincare routine.
Where Do I Start Creating a Skincare Routine?
Step 1: Begin with kindness.
Your skin is important. It protects your internal organs from the dirt and changing temperatures and physical assaults of the outside world. No matter how much acne you have, your skin is a gift.
Often we march into Sephora as if we are going into battle. We believe that our skin can be fixed if we combat it with the right products.
Instead, let’s care for our skin. Not because a glowing complexion will solve all our problems. Not because our skin defines our worth. No, we care for our skin because it’s an essential part of our beautiful bodies. It is deserving of kindness, and we can give it what it needs.
Step 2: Figure out your priorities.
Before you begin exploring products, you need a goal. Otherwise, you’ll be overwhelmed by countless products guaranteeing glowing skin or clean pores or oil reduction or intense hydration. Your skin doesn’t need all these things.
There are tons of quick quizzes and articles like this one to help you figure out your skin type. But I also recommend trusting your gut. Think about how your skin feels throughout the day. What does it seem to need? Less oil? More moisture? To start, pick just one thing you think your skin might appreciate. Focus on that.
Step 3: Master the essentials: cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen
I believe that everyone (even guys!) should use a good cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen every single day. Everyone’s skin accumulates grime. Everyone – even acne-prone and oily folks – need some form of moisture. And everyone gets exposure to harmful UVA and UVB rays. (If you’re starting from scratch with these three products, I recommend CeraVe.)
If you’ve mastered those basics, congratulations! You’re taking great care of your skin. You have zero obligation to use anything more.
But if you’re reading this, you probably want a little more. If you want to know how to create a skincare routine that’s a little more advanced, read on!
How Do I Find New Products that Work?
If you want to find the best products for your skin, it’s going to take a little effort. But you can do it. As I’ve built my skincare routine, here’s how I’ve found new products that actually help my skin.
1. Find your skincare gurus
The Internet is a wonderful place. Millions of articles about the best moisturizer for acne-prone skin and ways to layer serums and must-have face masks are right at your fingertips!
If you’re like me, you’ll begin exploring with enthusiasm. You start reading the recommendations of all the best beauty bloggers. You’ll get so many new ideas! But then you find yourself agonizing over a list of 37 different must-have moisturizers. That’s the opposite of helpful.
To simplify your product search, find one or two people whose skin needs seem similar to yours. Then ignore the rest.
My go-to people for skincare recommendations are Jamie Golden (of the Popcast) for tons of product recommendations and The Skincare Edit for informative tutorials. I don’t do every step of their exhaustive routines. I don’t agree with everything they say. But I do start with their resources when I have questions or need product ideas.
2. Learn key ingredients
If you’ve ever checked the label on your moisturizer, you’re probably protesting already. After all, are thousands of chemicals out there. Does anyone actually know what they all are? Don’t you need a degree in chemistry to understand them?
If this is completely overwhelming to you, skip this step. You’re going to be fine.
But I prefer to have an (admittedly vague) idea about what’s in my skincare. As someone with sensitive skin, this helps me avoid potential problem ingredients and seek out ones I know to be soothing.
I also suspect there are a few product ingredients out there that may not be the best for us. Knowing if those ingredients are in my skincare helps me make informed choices. If I can find a product that leaves out most of those questionable ingredients – and that product actually performs – amazing! But if I can’t find a “clean” option that works with my skin, I’m pretty sure my face won’t spontaneously combust.
Ingredients I Avoid
The following ingredients are ones I would avoid even if I didn’t have sensitive skin:
- Sulfates. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate make products like face wash lather, and they create that “squeaky clean” feeling. But they’re frequently cited as causing skin irritation and dryness. I’m even trying SLS-free toothpaste to help reduce breakouts around my mouth.
- Parabens. There’s controversy over whether these preservatives are actually dangerous. Both sides agree that at least some parabens mimic estrogen, but the potency of those effects and whether or not they might be linked to breast cancer is debated. (As an aside, could someone please do a complete, scientifically viable study on this?) As there’s also a small chance they can be irritating, I prefer to avoid them if possible.
- Phthalates. Phthalates are used to improve the texture of products or make fragrance last longer, but they are potentially carry toxins and harm reproduction. They often hide under the generic label “fragrance.”
- Chemical sunscreens like oxybenzone and avobenzone. While there are a whole host of potential negative effects of chemical sunscreens, I am most concerned about them because they can be very drying and irritating.
- Silicones. I don’t think silicones are totally terrible. But beyond adding a smooth coating to skin’s surface, they don’t really do much. My skin might feel moisturized – but silicone itself doesn’t add any hydration. If silicones like dimethicone (or other words ending in -cone or -siloxane) are toward the top of the ingredient list, especially in a moisturizer or serum, I typically avoid the product.
For my specific dry, sensitive, acne-prone skin, I avoid:
- Witch hazel. Witch hazel is a key ingredient in many toners, and it works great for most people. But it makes my skin freak the heck out.
- Added fragrance, of any kind. The generic label “fragrance” was created so brands didn’t have to give away trade secrets. But that also means they can hide lots of potentially irritating ingredients under the label (like phthalates). Even if the fragrance comes from essential oil blends, the potency can be too disruptive for my sensitive skin.
- Coconut oil. I admit that I haven’t actually tried anything with coconut oil on my skin because I’m terrified of its reputation for clogging pores.
Ingredients I choose not to worry about:
- Petrolatum products. Many people in the clean beauty space warn against ingredients like mineral oil and petrolatum (including The Skincare Edit), claiming they contain carcinogens if not properly purified. However, many clean alternatives are formulated with oils that make me break out. The best moisturizers I’ve found for my skin have all included some variation of petrolatum products, so I am choosing not to worry about them.
- PEGs. PEGs, or polyethylene glycol, can help to soften skin, enhance the texture of products, and increase penetration. People worry about them because of possible contamination risks and because they can make other harmful ingredients penetrate skin more easily. They’re also in so. many. products, including “clean” ones. If I can find a product without them, great. But often, I can’t. So I figure that if the rest of the ingredients in the product are relatively clean, I’m going to be fine.
Ingredients I actively seek out for my skin concerns:
- Niacinamide. Proven by science and beloved by beauty bloggers, niacinamide helps protect skin, heal irritation, and reduce redness, scarring, and discoloration. It’s also known as vitamin B3.
- Azelaic acid. Azelaic acid is a gentle exfoliant that limits keratin production and kills bacteria, helping minimize breakouts, heal acne scars, and reduce redness.
- A balance between hydrating ingredients. There are three different types of hydrating ingredients. Humectants, like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, draw moisture to the skin. Emollients, like shea butter, make skin feel more soft and comfortable. And occlusives, like petrolatum products and oils, provide a barrier to keep moisture from escaping. This article explains the difference well. None of these types is “better” than the other – in fact, your skin needs all three. Most moisturizers are pretty balanced, but I typically check to make sure a product doesn’t rely solely on oils.
If you want more info on ingredients, this ingredient tutorial taught me a lot and goes way more in-depth.
3. Start slowly
Once you’ve narrowed your priorities, decided what ingredients (if any) you’d like to avoid, and gathered a few product recommendations, it’s time to start testing those products!
This is where you’re going to need lots of self-control. Because you need to proceed slowly. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT attempt to change all your products at once. It’s not especially cost-effective. Even worse, if anything disagrees with your skin, it will be nearly impossible to figure out the culprit. This is especially important if you have sensitive skin!
Instead, go slow. Start by mastering your cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Change one product at a time. Try it for a few weeks to make sure it fits your skin’s needs. If you have sensitive skin, you might also consider doing a patch test. Apply the product to a small area of your face. If there’s no irritation after a few days, slather it all over! I admit, I mostly forget to do this. But it’s a brilliant idea!
As you’re experimenting, keep your expectations realistic. Be skeptical of the reviewers that claim that a product changed their skin overnight. Some skincare products take time to show results. In fact, you may have to wait up to six weeks to really see changes. Be patient.
How Should I Add New Products to My Skincare Routine?
At this point, maybe you’re noticing that your skin still needs something more. Maybe you still want to heal your acne or prevent wrinkles or kick your dry flakes to the curb. This is where specialized products can work their magic.
But where to begin?
Based on my research, here’s the order I recommend adding new products. You don’t have to add all – or any! – of these! Only add things that fit your needs.
1. Oil-based cleanser
The first extra step I’d add is an oil-based cleanser at night. Your regular cleanser probably can’t cut through all your makeup – but a cleansing oil, balm, or micellar water can! Use the oil-based cleanser first to dissolve your makeup and built-up oils. Then complete your cleanse with a typical water-based cleanser. I love micellar water for this, but this cleansing balm and this cheaper alternative come highly recommended.
2. Exfoliant
Next, I’d find a gentle exfoliant to apply a few times per week right after cleansing. Exfoliants help your face shed dead skin cells. Their benefits are legion: products absorb better, breakouts get cleared, and skin glows!
There are two kinds of exfoliants: physical and chemical. Physical exfoliants physically slough off dead skin. Any scrub with some grit is a physical exfoliant. These can be great, but be careful! Exfoliating particles with ragged edges can create tiny, damaging tears in your skin. Instead, choose a gentle exfoliant and use it no more than once a week.
Since physical exfoliants can be a bit aggressive, I stick to chemical exfoliants. Chemical exfoliants help dissolve the bonds between skin cells, allowing the dead ones to fall away. The most common chemical exfoliants are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. You can learn more about types of chemical exfoliants and what might work best for you here. Personally, I use a gentle BHA. BHAs dissolve in oil, so they excel at cleaning out pores and preventing breakouts. Start out using an exfoliant just once a week, then build up to more frequent use.
If you begin using an acid, be warned that you might experience some purging. As your pores get cleaned out, they may bring brewing breakouts to the surface. It can make it hard to know if the product is a good fit! This article provides a good guide to whether you’re purging or experiencing regular old irritation.
3. Treatment or Serum
After you’ve found an exfoliant you love, I’d add a concentrated treatment to target any additional skin needs. This might be in the form of a booster or serum. Apply these products right before your moisturizer, and their potent ingredients will do serious work on your specific skin concerns. (Alas, their power means they can also be bonkers expensive.) I’m just beginning to explore the world of serums myself. Currently, I’ve added an azelaic acid booster to help heal acne scars and prevent further breakouts. Next on my list is a serum to boost hydration (because: winter).
4. Face mask
Masks can provide a jolt of beneficial ingredients. They’re also just fun. Sure, you definitely can grab some individual sheet masks at Target. But most skincare products show stronger effects with consistent use. I love doing a really basic manuka honey mask once or twice a week. A friend recommended it for gentle, soothing moisture – it is magical.
And that’s where my routine stops! I don’t plan to pursue the full 10-step Korean skincare routine, as most dermatologists recommend keeping product lists as short as possible for sensitive skin.
Here are the steps and products I’m skipping:
- Toner. I’m not convinced that toner is actually necessary for my skin. Toners were originally designed when people relied on lye-based cleaners to dissolve residue and restore pH balance. Since my cleanser doesn’t leave a residue and is an appropriate pH, I’m not worried about it.
- Essence. Essences are water-based products that claim to increase hydration and product absorption. But I tried one that had amazing reviews, and it just made me sticky. I’ll use a serum to add hydration instead.
- Eye cream. I struggle to find an eye cream that doesn’t cause irritation, and I’m not convinced it’s that much different than regular moisturizer. For now, I (gently!) use my face cream around my eyes instead.
If you want to include these products? Or your eye cream brings you joy? Great! You do you.
Whew. You made it!
The most important things to remember as you experiment with skincare:
- Be kind to yourself. Always.
- Find what works for YOU and your skin’s needs. just because someone on the Internet says something (ahem) doesn’t mean you have to do it.
- All you truly need is a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Skip the rest guilt-free.
- Go slow. One new product at a time!
I hope this guide helps you figure out how to create a skincare routine that works for you! Want to check out the products I use and routine I follow? Take a look at this post! You can also check out this post with my favorite budget-friendly skincare tools!